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Milan Fashion Week

Milan Fashion Week was a multi-cultural melting pot. Inspirations ranged from Afghanistan to the Amazonian rainforest, from Peking to Polynesia, and from the Riviera and Romania to Rajasthan. The collections were a complete about-face from this winter's ladylike mood. They jolted us out of the Forties-Fifties rut and, for a city that prides itself on its unshackled "sexisimo", were surprisingly restrained.

Even Donatella Versace veered away from the brash, bright, come-hither glam that is the brand's signature, choosing a soft allure inspired by the sea and featuring sarong-knotted, silk jersey dresses, coral prints, shell-shaped bags and flip-flops decorated with starfish. Antonio Marras moved the "waterworld" inspiration back in time to Atlantis with draped chiffon gowns in palest turquoise bedecked with ancient jewellery.

Exotica was the predominant fashion story. Roberto Cavalli dressed a jet-set nomad in tiger-print kaftans with spinnaker sleeves, gipsy skirts printed with fruit, flowers and serpents, and tube dresses embroidered in crystal with African masks and hemmed-in ostrich feathers.

Giorgio Armani traversed India in his Emporio line and China in his main collection. Anna Molinari drew on her travels in North Africa, with Berber and Bedouin-inspired patterned dresses, embroidered boleros and tribal jewellery.

Rifat Ozbek at Pollini used Indian silver embroidery to detail Nehru-collared jackets and slim skirts. At Etro, the ethnic trail had Navajo, Peruvian and African stopovers before settling in India, while Alberta Ferretti's silk and chiffon smocks and tunics in hot Moroccan tones featured jewelled and crocheted necklines.

Gianfranco Ferre mixed Oriental embroideries, python and crocodile skins and rainforest prints in a glam-exotica collection, accessorised with warthog tusks, while, at Fendi, although the prints and crocheted leather work suggested tribal, Karl Lagerfeld's starting point was the artist Miro.

Dolce & Gabbana's "Out of Africa" collection showcased python, zebra and tiger-printed chiffon, chain mail and lace, accessorised with crystal-encrusted boots and ballet pumps, safari shirts with tulle and feather skirts, and jodhpurs with scarlet bustiers.

Safari chic was classic and tailored at MaxMara, the emphasis on neutral-toned trench coats, bush jackets, Bermudas and wider-volume trousers.

Although Alessandra Facchinetti's eagerly awaited debut collection for Gucci followed her predecessor Tom Ford's siren call for sensuality, skirts and short dresses featured Moroccan-inspired fringing and macramé, and sinuous gowns were draped and knotted like saris.

Prada was the other hot show of the week. Sporty shapes, exotic birds and colours inspired by Africa and Rastafarians gave the Prada collection a more youthful, less-retro focus.

At Miu Miu, world culture took in Japan, too, with shifts and high-waisted dresses in bold, Seventies-style and kite graphics.

Folk chic followed the festival trail from Woodstock to Glastonbury: naïve and innocent at Marni, seemingly inspired by the way Kate Moss and Sienna Miller dress at Missoni and SportMax.

The other key theme was "country garden". Christopher Bailey, in a fabulous Burberry Prorsum collection, showed full-sleeved trenches, tiered skirts, smock dresses and "old school" scarves and knits in chintzy florals, stripes and Wedgwood patterns.

Luisa Beccaria focused on the pastel floral dress and pretty cardigan, and at Moschino, the floral mood had a milkmaid twist with lacy petticoat hems.

Jil Sander's country garden interpretation was light, contemporary and a natural progression from the more romantic mood of her comeback collection last season. Dresses were detailed with dainty tucks and sun-bleached, blue-and-white "star" prints used for trousers and shirts. She also gave a nod to safari chic with cream and olive trench coats and slim knee-length skirts.

Gentucca Bini, a relatively new addition to the Milan calendar, provided an offbeat contrast to mainstream trends, showing draped highwayman jackets, jodhpurs and asymmetric skirts over cropped pants in a collection that recalled early Galliano and Westwood.

What's hot

Trends: cropped trousers, jodhpurs, harem trousers, slim pants under skirts, Bermudas, halternecks, smock tops and dresses, military and safari jackets, djellabas, kaftans, high waists, shrugs, tiny cardigans, balloon sleeves, petticoats, tiered or flounced trench coats, the 24-hour bikini.

Details: macramé, crochet, mirror work, fringing, embroidery, feather trims, patchwork, badges. Accessories: tribal jewellery, big bangles, cord belts, obi wraps, hats, jewelled Cleopatra sandals, wedge soles, bead necklaces, straw baskets, socks, rucksacks, dangling belt purses.

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